10 Marvelous Merlot

Émilion and Pomerol by traditionalists and with fighting varietals by followers of fashion. Merlot is Bordeaux's most planted black grape variety, and has been enjoying unaccustomed popularity elsewhere."

My guess is if Bordeaux prices continue to rise it won't be long before the Oxford people are telling consumers that varietal merlot produced all over the world is often blended with other red grapes in Bordeaux.

In fact, the same properties that make merlot the perfect grape to soften cabernet are the ones that appeal to consumers who like this ready-to-drink, soft, round wine. Merlot's appeal is mostly about texture. It is round and soft or as Jancis Robinson would say, "it's cabernet without the pain."

In B.C., merlot is making our best red largely because of all the red varieties it seems to be the one we can fully ripen most years. It is welcomed for its earlier ripening pattern although because it begins its growth cycle earlier it can be susceptible to frost and other early season maladies.

Merlot is not quite so vigorous as Cabernet Sauvignon but its looser bunches of larger, notably thinner-skinned grapes are much more prone to rot. In cool climates it can have a green herbaceous tint that while once was an acceptable flavour in red wine, it is no longer a trait the world's best merlot exhibit. Here's ten marvelous merlot to contemplate,

96/100 Sterling Vineyards Merlot Reserve 1999
Napa Valley, California, United States
We don't throw a lot points away so pay attention this is great bottle of merlot and one of few that respects the variety. Look for a minty, saddle leather, plum jam nose flecked with peppery, chocolate, vanilla, cardamom, black olive and cedar notes. It is rich, round and very concentrated on entry with ripe, grainy tannins. Huge vanilla, chocolate, coffee, plum jam flavours mix effortlessly with a minty, olive, peppery clove undercurrent. The finish is smooth and long streaked with sweet vanilla and black plums. Excellent effort from a winery that seems to have been lost in the Seagram shuffle in Canada.
Tasted: 2003-12-31 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $79.95 (750 ml) Specialty
CSPC: 584136;   UPC: 5000299232057
Producer: Sterling Vineyards
Distributor: Diageo Canada Inc.

94/100 Matanzas Creek Merlot 2001
Sonoma County, California, United States
We love the sophisticated toasted, smoky oak vanilla aromas streaked with pepper, chocolate and black plum jam. The 01 Matanzas merlot is intense to say the least. It is packed full of toasted oak, coffee, chocolate, plum jam and orange peel flavours all mixed with sweet vanilla, cherry jam and a touch of black olive in the finish. Smooth and polished, perhaps the best yet from Matanzas. Top quality here and drinkable but you could easily cellar this red for three to five more years.
Tasted: 2003-12-31 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $49.50 (750 ml)
UPC: 728759132109
Producer: Matanzas Creek Winery
Distributor: Vinterra Wine Merchants

94/100 L'Ecole No 41 Merlot Seven Hills Vineyard 2000
Walla Walla Valley, Columbia Valley, Washington, United States
At 12 years old Seven Vineyards is now delivering consistent fruit with enticing spicy, cherry jam, vanilla, and leather, orange and chocolate aromas. On the palate similar rich, concentrated, ripe flavours await with a dollop of tannin. The flavour mix is orange spice, cherry jam, olive, pepper and cocoa with fine structure. Excellent potential form a vintage that will be remembered for some time.
Tasted: 2003-04-10 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $67.95 (750 ml) Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $73.95 (750 ml)
CSPC: 62067
Producer: L'Ecole No 41
Distributor: Winspeer International Group Ltd.

93/100 Sterling Vineyards Merlot Three Palms Vineyard 1999
Napa Valley, California, United States
If there's a better '99 merlot in Napa we haven't tasted it. Wow we love the big spicy, buttery vanilla, coffee/Christmas pudding, nose streaked with peppery, black cherry jam. Three palms is so rich and smooth but it still has considerable grip and tannins in the finish perhaps it's the 12 per cent added cabernet sauvignon and nine per cent petite verdot. Look for lovely chocolate, spicy, vanilla, cherry and plum jam flavours with a long, warm, fruity clove orange finish. Nice complexity and balance. Drinkable now but should improve over the next 2-4 years.
Tasted: 2003-12-31 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $64.95 (750 ml) Specialty; ON $59.95 (750 ml) Vintages
CSPC: 387860;   UPC: 5000299239001
Producer: Sterling Vineyards
Distributor: Diageo Canada Inc.
 
93/100 J. Bookwalter Merlot 2001
Columbia Valley, Washington, United States
A bright purple colour previews a nose of ripe chocolate flecked with plum jam and cherries. Very similar flavours with super rich textures and ripe vanilla, orange plum and Christmas pudding aftertaste. Reminds us of Le Pin perhaps without the elegance but without the price tag too. Fabulous New World merlot.
Tasted: 2003-06-13 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $46.95 (750 ml) Specialty
CSPC: 608679;   UPC: 080960000609
Producer: Bookwalter Winery LLC
Distributor: Vinterra Wine Merchants

93/100 Masseto 2000
Bolgheri, Tuscany, Italy
Spicy, creme brulee, clove, vanilla, plum jam and coffee aromas mixed with saddle leather, tobacco and gamey notes. Rich, unctuous and elegant with very peppery, spicy, clove, coffee, tobacco and black cherry jam flavours and a licorice, plum, minty, vanilla finish. A bit hot and oaky at this stage, needs several years to integrate fully. Ripe stuff. Prices are for the 1999 vintage.
Tasted: 2003-05-21 by ST
Prices: AB $269.99 (750 ml) Fine Wine Boutiques; QC $299.00 (750 ml)
Producer: Tenuta dell'Ornellaia
Distributor: Maxxium Canada (Vancouver)
 
93/100 Craggy Range Merlot 2001
Gimblett Gravels, Hawkes Bay, North Island, New Zealand
After pressing the malolactic fermentation was completed in barrel, of which 65% was new and all was French. Look for ripe, black cherry and plum fruit on the nose and styling reminiscent of Bordeaux's 'Right Bank'. Big sweet fruit flavours and spicy, smoky, black plum fruit with spicy vanilla. Warm but well-balanced with fine textures and very ripe for New Zealand merlot. Hurrah for the Gravels! Drink now but should improve through 2007.
Tasted: 2003-05-04 by AG-ST
Prices: AB $45.90 (750 ml) Fine Wine Boutiques; BC $51.90 (750 ml) Speculative - Winspeer
CSPC: 711026;   UPC: 9421004550550
Producer: Craggy Range Vineyards Ltd.
Distributor: Winspeer International Group Ltd.
 
92/100 Seven Hills Merlot Seven Hills Vineyard 2001
Walla Walla Valley, Columbia Valley, Washington, United States
Enticing cherry/orange spice nose with olive, dill and chocolate/vanilla aromas. Its round, moderately soft tannins are nicely balanced the flavours are orange mocha, olive dill and cherry. Young, very good fruit that reminds us a bit like a fine Pomerol.
Tasted: 2003-04-10 by AG-ST
Prices: US $30.00 (750 ml)
Producer: Seven Hills Winery
Distributor: Terrarosa Imports

92/100 Turnbull Merlot Estate Grown 1999
Oakville, Napa Valley, California, United States
Winemaker Jon Engelskirger says, the ''99 vintage merlot is the most exciting he's made to date," and we agree. The 100 per cent merlot (grown mostly at Fortuna Vineyard in Oakville) has a meaty/menthol aroma with an undercurrent of truffle. Still youthful in colour and retaining significant tannins the flavours run the gamut of earth, mushroom black olives, bay leaf, cedar and tobacco. Firm and rich it's a merlot that's a bit more cabernet and a little less California, which should please both sides of the fence.
Tasted: 2003-05-28 by AG-ST
Prices: BC $45.95 (750 ml) Special Order - Vinterra Wine Merchants
UPC: 793589027505
Producer: Turnbull Wine Cellars
Distributor: Vinterra Wine Merchants

92/100 Woodward Canyon Merlot 2000
Columbia Valley, Washington, United States
A blend of 84/16 merlot and cabernet. Ripe cherry jam, smoky coffee, peppery orange spice aromas. Rich, round and moderately tannic with cocoa, black pepper, spicy, black cherry and orange spice flavours. A bit hot and tannic but great intensity.
Tasted: 2003-04-09 by ST
Prices: US $37.50 (750 ml)
Producer: Woodward Canyon
Distributor: Terrarosa Imports