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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Unico Zelo Birdwood Fianotext
90POINTS
16½/20

Unico Zelo Birdwood Fiano 2022

Adelaide Hills, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide, South Australia, AustraliaHusband and wife duo Brendan and Laura Carter started Unico Zelo in 2012 to shine a light on the numerous Italian varieties planted in Oz, now shining in the face of climate change. While they make a few different fianos, all from different soils / regions, this new inaugural release of Birdwood features the use of oak. From 10 year old grafted vines at 400m on alluvial quarts and clay over limestone, this fruit was destemmed, left on skins overnight, and then pressed to stainless for ferment. This then underwent a 50/50 split, resting in new 500L French puncheons, and stainless over one year. The lots were then blended and remained in stainless for 9 months prior to bottling (final blend 40% oaked, 60% stainless). The wood is present and up front, seasoning the creamy lemon curd, fragrant pear, pencil shavings, and flaxen lees coating the palate. Certainly a fuller, richer style than their other fianos, and one that will tame in future renditions as the new wood fades into the background. For now, partner with creamy pastas or risottos.Tasted: 14 June 2025Tasted by: Treve RingPrices:
BC$66.00750mlprivate wine stores
Producer: Unico ZeloDistributors: Sur Lie
Grape: FianoCSPC: 313698