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88POINTS
16/20
Azores Wine Co Isabella a Proibida Rosé NV
PortugalThe proibida (prohibition) of this wine necessitating the pink line crossing out words here because this is an old vine/vineyard blend of Isabella, a hybrid grape that is not allowed for quality wine in the EU, and certainly looked down upon in the Azores and Portugal. However, winemaker Antonio Maçanita wanted to pay tribute to these old isabella vines, once in abundance and with 200 years history on this volcanic island, before phylloxera ravaged through. From vineyards close to the sea, protected from the strong salty ocean winds by walls of rock known as currais, the slightly pressed grapes saw 3-6 hours of skin time before a native ferment and short rest in stainless, the brief maceration giving the slight pink hue. Watermelon candy, pear blossoms are lifted with rhubarb acidity, sailing this to a sour crunchy plum finish. Salinity is rinsed throughout, leaving this light (11.5%) pink fresh and clean and ready for food pairings (think tapas).Tasted: 20 June 2025Tasted by: Treve RingPrices:Substrat Wine Company
Grape: Isabella
