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94POINTS
17½/20
Champagne Ulysse Collin Les Maillons Blanc de Noirs NV
Côte des Blancs, Champagne, FranceThe Collin family's winemaking roots in Congy can be traced back for generations, dating back to 1812. Current generation Olivier Collin reclaimed the family vineyards, which had been leased out to Pommery, in 2003, after years of working to break the lease. He turned the near 9 hectare estate into organic viticulture, and ushered in the start of the label Ulysse Collin, one of the stars of the grower champagne movement. Their three vineyards are located in the Coteaux du Petit Morin and Côteaux du Sézannais. Olivier's time working with Anselme Selosse can be seen in the low-intervention winemaking, and use of large foudres and 225L barrels. This BdN is pinot noir from the Sézannais lieu-dit Les Maillons, planted in 1971 / 1972. It is base year 2019, with 50% reserves from 2018, and after 36 months sur lattes, was disgorged February 14, 2023 with 1.7 g/L. Smouldering wild cherries, perfumed raspberries course through this intense and elegant wine, long on the palate with dried and fresh red fruit and florals. Well integrated toast, deep meringue, and ample flake salts intermingle, and linger on the savoury finish. This is quite a vinous, serious wine that grows with time in the glass. When I tasted with Olivier at the winery, he opened the wine and let it sit on the table for more than 1 hour, unchilled, while we visited vineyards and chatted. When we returned to taste, it had opened and was showing as intended.Tasted: 03 March 2024Tasted by: Treve RingPrices:| QC | $120.00 | 750ml | SAQ |
Grape: Pinot Noir
