quicksearch
Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Champagne Ulysse Collin Les Maillons Blanc de Noirstext
93POINTS
17¼/20

Champagne Ulysse Collin Les Maillons Blanc de Noirs NV

Côte des Blancs, Champagne, FranceThe Collin family's winemaking roots in Congy can be traced back for generations, dating back to 1812. Current generation Olivier Collin reclaimed the family vineyards, which had been leased out to Pommery, in 2003, after years of working to break the lease. He turned the near 9 hectare estate into organic viticulture, and ushered in the start of the label Ulysse Collin, one of the stars of the grower champagne movement. Their three vineyards are located in the Coteaux du Petit Morin and Côteaux du Sézannais. Olivier's time working with Anselme Selosse can be seen in the low-intervention winemaking, and use of large foudres and 225L barrels. This BdN is pinot noir from the Sézannais lieu-dit Les Maillons, planted in 1971 / 1972. This is base year 2020, with 50% reserves from 2019, and after 48 months in the cellar, was disgorged January 2025. An oxidative kiss colours this savoury wine, enhancing the wildness woven throughout the Rainier cherry, wild raspberry, meringue, and earthy lees. This is lit with a red currant acidity that sharpens to a penciled and precise lingering salty finish. A striking wine, to be sure, perhaps not for everyone, but for those patient enough to let it unravel....Tasted: 01 April 2026Tasted by: Prices:
QC$120.00750mlSAQ
Producer: Champagne Ulysse CollinDistributors: Groupe Soleil
Grape: Pinot Noir