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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Champagne Ulysse Collin Les Maillons Blanc de Noirstext
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17½/20

Champagne Ulysse Collin Les Maillons Blanc de Noirs NV

Côte des Blancs, Champagne, FranceThe Collin family's winemaking roots in Congy can be traced back for generations, dating back to 1812. Current generation Olivier Collin reclaimed the family vineyards, which had been leased out to Pommery, in 2003, after years of working to break the lease. He turned the near 9 hectare estate into organic viticulture, and ushered in the start of the label Ulysse Collin, one of the stars of the grower champagne movement. Their three vineyards are located in the Coteaux du Petit Morin and Côteaux du Sézannais. Olivier's time working with Anselme Selosse can be seen in the low-intervention winemaking, and use of large foudres and 225L barrels. This BdN is pinot noir from the Sézannais lieu-dit Les Maillons, planted in 1971 / 1972. It is base year 2019, with 50% reserves from 2018, and after 36 months sur lattes, was disgorged February 14, 2023 with 1.7 g/L. Pinot noir's structure and perfume is on full display here, with fragrant and perfumed red cherries and raspberries opening to a Rainier cherry led palate, accompanied by toasted vanilla biscuit, crushed flint and chalk, and alluring licks of reduction that linger long on the deeply chalky finish.Tasted: 06 July 2025Tasted by: Prices:
QC$120.00750mlSAQ
Producer: Champagne Ulysse CollinDistributors: Groupe Soleil
Grape: Pinot Noir