Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Champagne A. Lamblot Mouvance 17text

Champagne A. Lamblot Mouvance 17 NV

Montagne de Reims, Champagne, France13th generation (!!) Champagne grower Alexandre Lamblot took over his family's 3.8 ha of old vineyards in the northernmost part of the Petit Montagne de Reims, transforming the vines into certified organics and biodynamics, and planting more than 100 trees (mostly fruit) to increase biodiversity. Mouvance (translating to movement, and referring to the dependence of one phenomenon on another) is entirely from the 2017 vintage, and blends equal parts chardonnay, pinot noir, and pinot meunier from his top plots in Vrigny and Chenay. This was native fermented in a mix of stainless and older barrels, with random MLF, before a minimum of 2 years on lees (manual remuage) prior to a zero dosage disgorge in December 22, according to the lunar cycle, and with minimal sulphur throughout. That low SO2 level shows in this bottle, with an omnipresent and over time, highly unwelcome oxidative note ruling, thanks to transportation across the oceans to western Canada. However, emerging underneath is the deep layers of chalk, lemon pith and peel, tangerine, deep red and white cherry, young florals, with a rimrod spire of lemony acidity that buzzes along the lingering finish. Though certainly red fruited, the chalky brace wins out in this textural wine. I only wish I could taste it in Europe.Tasted: 23 March 2024Tasted by: Treve RingPrices:
BC$140.00750mlprivate wine stores
Producer: Champagne A. LamblotDistributors: That's Life Gourmet
Blend: Chardonnay - Pinot Noir - Pinot Meunier