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17/20
Champagne Marie Copinet Au Détour du Sézannais NV
Côte de Sézanne, Champagne, FranceMarie-Laure Copinet and her winemaker husband Alexandre Kowal have taken over her family's estate, founded by her father Jacques in 1975. Before then, the Copinets were selling their fruit to Moet, but Jacques' work at Taittinger led him to decide to create their own grower champagne (RM) estate. They are based in the tiny Champagne village of Montgenost (population 140) in the Côtes des Sézanne, and they own 9 hectares of vineyards in Côtes des Sézanne, Côtes des Bar, and Vallée de la Marne, producing only 5,500 cases annually, and began organic conversion in 2018. This chardonnay comes from top plots in Villenauxe la Grande, in the Sézannais' chalky soils. It was vinified in 300L barrels. This went into bottle (unfiltered) in 2018, under agrafe, and was disgorged in March 2022, with 3 g/L. The toasty brioche richness of the wood aging and cork aging is met with equally present and powerful deep chalk, and a ramrod lemon laced acidity, which backbones this wine. Tight green apple, smouldering crushed stones, lemon pith, is woven with alluring savoury umami notes, finishing in a lingering salinity. Quite a remarkable, intellectual, and distinct wine.Tasted: 24 April 2023Tasted by: Treve RingPrices:| France | $60.00 | 750ml | France (euros) |
Grape: Chardonnay
