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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Champagne Ulysse Collin Les Perrières Blanc de Blancstext
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18/20

Champagne Ulysse Collin Les Perrières Blanc de Blancs NV

Côte des Blancs, Champagne, FranceThe Collin family's winemaking roots in Congy can be traced back for generations, dating back to 1812. Current generation Olivier Collin reclaimed the family vineyards, which had been leased out to Pommery, in 2003, after years of working to break the lease. He turned the near 9 hectare estate into organic viticulture, and ushered in the start of the label Ulysse Collin, one of the stars of the grower champagne movement. Their three vineyards are located in the Coteaux du Petit Morin and Côteaux du Sézannais. Olivier's time working with Anselme Selosse can be seen in the low-intervention winemaking, and use of large foudres and 225L barrels. Les Pierrières is a single vineyard of old vines in the Coteaux du Petit Morin, with soft, chalky soils distinctively laced with black flint. The base of this Chardonnay is 2017, and it spent 48 months on lees prior to a disgorge February 2022. Olivier releases his wines with different lees aging periods (36, 48, 72 months for some years). This is polished and poised, with white cherry, patisserie, lemon peel, and savoury stoniness humming along through a lengthy, saline finish, with a brief kiss of anise at the very end. Quite a profound, remarkable wine, drinking now, and with time ahead.Tasted: 23 November 2024Tasted by: Prices:
QC$149.25750mlSAQ
Producer: Champagne Ulysse CollinDistributors: Groupe Soleil
Grape: Chardonnay