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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Champagne Ulysse Collin Les Pierrières Blanc de Blancstext
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17½/20

Champagne Ulysse Collin Les Pierrières Blanc de Blancs NV

Côte des Blancs, Champagne, FranceThe Collin family's winemaking roots in Congy can be traced back for generations, dating back to 1812. Current generation Olivier Collin reclaimed the family vineyards, which had been leased out to Pommery, in 2003, after years of working to break the lease. He turned the near 9 hectare estate into organic viticulture, and ushered in the start of the label Ulysse Collin, one of the stars of the grower champagne movement. Their 3 vineyards are located in the Coteaux du Petit Morin and Côteaux du Sézannais. Olivier's time working with Anselme Selosse can be seen in the low-intervention winemaking, and use of large foudres and 225L barrels. Les Pierrières is a single vineyard of old vines in the Coteaux du Petit Morin, with soft, chalky soils distinctively laced with black flint. The base of this Chardonnay is 2020, and it spent 48 months in the cellar prior to a disgorge January 2025. There will be up to 50% reserve wines in here (from the same vineyard), stored in foudre, and most likely from 2018 and 2019. Serious and savoury, dominated by ample wet chalk and crushed stones, layered with Rainier cherry, green apple, lemon peel, and anise, and driven by a buzzy, long, and intent fine acidity through a lingering finish. This is as vinous and intellectual a champagne as they come. Not for everyone (thankfully).Tasted: 01 March 2026Tasted by: Prices:
QC$149.25750mlSAQ
Producer: Champagne Ulysse CollinDistributors: Groupe Soleil
Grape: Chardonnay