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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Champagne Ulysse Collin Les Perrierestext
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17/20

Champagne Ulysse Collin Les Perrieres NV

Côte des Blancs, Champagne, FranceThe Collin family's winemaking roots in Congy can be traced back for generations, dating back to 1812. Current generation Olivier Collin reclaimed the family vineyards, which had been leased out to Pommery, in 2003, after years of working to break the lease. He turns the near-9 hectare estate into organic viticulture, and ushered in the start of the label Ulysse Collin, one of the stars of the grower champagne movement. Their three vineyards are located in the Coteaux du Petit Morin and Côteaux du Sézannais. Olivier's time working with Anselme Selosse can be seen in the low-intervention winemaking, and use of large foudres and 225L barrels. Les Pierrières is single vineyard of old vines in the Coteaux du Petit Morin, with soft chalky soils distinctively laced with black flint. The base of this Chardonnay is 2015, and it spent 48 months on lees prior to a disgorge in March 2020. Fine bubbles stretch long on the shimmering palate, lit with lemon, based on green apple, and bedded with chalk. The flinty soils give a Chablis-like character to this wine, and now with extended time post-disgorge, there is a shading of savoury caramelization. Very vinous, and very distinct, this is a wine to add to your Champagne repertoire.Tasted: 08 January 2023Tasted by: Treve RingPrices:
QC$149.25750mlSAQ
Producer: Champagne Ulysse CollinGrape: Chardonnay