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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Champagne Laherte Frères Blanc de Blancs Brut Naturetext
93POINTS
17¼/20

Champagne Laherte Frères Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature NV

Champagne, FranceThe Laherte family has a long history in the region. Founded in 1889 by Jean-Baptiste Laherte, the estate was initially made up of vines primarily in the village of Chavot. Fourth-generation vigneron Michel Laherte expanded the family estate, covering about five hectares. With his wife Cécile, the two young vignerons modernized the press and tanks but soon realized that too much modernity, such as herbicides and pesticides, would prevent full terroir expression in the wines. They began working the soils, gently vinifying the juices, and remaining humble and patient as the wines developed. In 2005, his son Aurélien Laherte overtook operations of the estate. The 10.5 hectares of Larherte vineyards are mainly situated in the Coteaux Sud D'Epernay, sandwiched between the Cotes des Blancs and the Vallee de la Marne. Seven of their 75+ separate parcels are farmed biodynamically and certified organic, with the rest organic or sustainably farmed. The Blanc de Blancs come off their chalkiest soils, in Chavot and Epernay, from vines averaging 35 years. It was fermented in small foudres and barrels with light bâtonnage and partial MLF before heading to the bottle for at least 24 months. My bottle was disgorged in July 2021 with zero dosage. Racy and tight, the chalky soils and gently handled grapes swallow up all of the oak, returning it as a gentle, subtle cloak around the zippy, driving acidity ruling the palate. Green apple, lemon blossom, and lemon peel streak the length of this energetic wine, bedded by a generous layer of deep chalk and fine lees. The finish stretches long and saline, kissed with white flowers. A graceful charmer.Tasted: 07 April 2022Tasted by: Treve RingPrices:
BC$93.00750mlprivate wine stores
Producer: Champagne Laherte FrèresDistributors: Olivier Brands
Grape: Chardonnay