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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Champagne Philipponnat Clos de Goissestext
96POINTS
18½/20

Champagne Philipponnat Clos de Goisses 2011

Champagne, FranceClos de Goisses is one of the world's most prized champagnes, entirely drawn from the single Glos des Goisses vineyard in the Vallée de la Marne. The steeply sloping south facing vineyard has been planted to vines since 1522, making it the oldest clos in Champagne. Champagne Philipponnat began in 1910 when Auguste and Pierre Philipponnat established their Champagne house in its current location of Mareuil sur Aÿ. They acquired this 5.8 hectare jewel of a site in 1935, currently planted to 3.5 hectares pinot noir, and 2 hectares chardonnay on chalky bedrock. Clos des Goisses is divided into 14 plots, of which only the four best of 2011 were included in this blend. This vintage is uniquely entirely pinot noir, due to the uprooting of Chardonnay vines in certain plots just before 2011, and the exceptionally floral aromatic profile of that year's pinot noir. The hand-selected grapes were primarily (80%) fermented in older wood, with no MLF, before heading to barrel for an 8 year rest, prior to disgorgement in 2020, with 4.5 g/L. Such a striking wine. Very powerful and deep, yet light and graceful, with deep chalk underlaying filigreed white cherry, wild strawberry, wild raspberry, scented with wild mint. The finish lingers with a fine chalky minerality, and slight dusting of white pepper. So vinous, but so elegant and finessed, every glass is a thrill. This wine is ideally drinking now, but will last in your cellar for many, many years to come.Tasted: 20 November 2021Tasted by: Treve RingPrices:
BC$400.00750mlprivate wine shops
Producer: Champagne PhilipponnatDistributors: Stile Brands
Grape: Pinot Noir