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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Alvarinho Soalheiro Primeiras Vinhastext
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Alvarinho Soalheiro Primeiras Vinhas 2018

Vinhos Verde, Northern Portugal, PortugalSoalheiro is, and should be, regarded as the epitome of Vinho Verde production. Luis Cerdeiro, along with his brother Joâo and sister Maria, have taken over the northern VV estate that their father Joâo planted in 1974, making them the 4th wine producer in VV at that time making and bottling their own wines to sell. Soalheiro is Portuguese for 'sunny', as their site, in the priced subregion of Moncão e Melgaço, is protected from the harsh Atlantic winds by a range of mountains. Thus, they are wamer and less humid than their neighbours just across the divide, in Spain's Rias Baixas region. Their 15 estate hectares are rooted in granitic soils between 100-400m, including one small parcel of own rooted vines. They also have one experimental 2 ha parcel planted at 1100m on pure schist, preparing for climate change. This, their 'entry' alvarinho was primarily fermented and aged in stainless, to preserve the purity of fruit, with 15% of the wine seeing time in older oak. And pure this is, with pear, green apple, lemon and pith, meadow grasses sailing along the lightly honeyed palate, finishing with a slick of stony salinity and that hum of granite. Drinking beautifully now, but will certainly age. Such a lovely view of alvarinho, and its zenith in Moncão e Melgaço.Tasted: 14 June 2021Tasted by: Treve RingPrices: QC 28.00 SAQ Producer: Quinta de SoalheiroGrape: Alvarinho