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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Soalheiro Alvarinho Granittext
92POINTS
17/20

Soalheiro Alvarinho Granit 2019

Vinhos Verde, Northern Portugal, PortugalSoalheiro is regarded as the epitome of Vinho Verde production, and for good reason. Luis Cerdeiro, along with his brother Joâo and sister Maria, have taken over the northern VV estate that their father Joâo planted in 1974, making them the 4th wine producer in VV at that time making and bottling their own wines to sell. Soalheiro is Portuguese for 'sunny', as their site, in the priced subregion of Moncão e Melgaço, is protected from the harsh Atlantic winds by a range of mountains. Thus, they are wamer and less humid than their neighbours just across the divide, in Spain's Rias Baixas region. Their 15 estate hectares are rooted in granitic soils between 100-400m, including one small parcel of own rooted vines. They also have one experimental 2 ha parcel planted at 1100m on pure schist, in preparation for the changing climate. Granit comes from a specific selection of vineyards planted above 300m, showing off what Luis believes is the true granitic nature of Monção & Melgaço. This was fermented and rested in stainless, with regular bâtonnage. This is not about fruit, but about place. Focused and tense with that characteristic granitic buzz, this slender palate streams stone, pear skin, apricot fuzz, subtle lime blossom and firm lime pith through a lengthy, buzzing finish. This wine is alive with vibrancy, drinking beautifully now in youth, and with much time ahead.Tasted: 02 May 2021Tasted by: Treve RingPrices: Portugal 15.00 Portugal Producer: Quinta de SoalheiroGrape: Alvarinho