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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Bermejos Malvasía Volcánica Secotext
90POINTS
16½/20

Bermejos Malvasía Volcánica Seco 2020

Canary Islands, SpainLos Bermejos is headed by pioneering winemaker Ignacio Valdera. Lanzarote is the farthest east of the seven main islands of the Canaries, closest to Africa, and is the driest and hottest of the group, as it lacks the mountainous terrain that dominates the others. As such, the winds are intense, and vines need to be planted in small 2m deep hoyos, or holes, in order to survive. This is organically-farmed Malvasia Volcánica, a cross between Malvasia Aromatica and Marmajuelo, the latter of which is indigenous to the Canaries. The vines were not affected by phylloxera. This was fermented in steel, where it remained on skins until bottling. Wild and bright, struck by a streak of flinty reduction that draws subtle quince, green fig, white peach, wildflowers, salted dried herbs, crushed stone along a slender palate, finishing with a marine rinse. There's a lovely purity to this wine, though it's not of fruit. Would be beauty with any kind of white fish / shellfish dish, or use to partner with tricky asparagus or artichoke dishes. Impressive.Tasted: 02 May 2021Tasted by: Treve RingPrices: BC 35.99 BCLS Producer: Bodegas Los BermejosDistributors: World Wine Synergy Inc.
Grape: Malvasía VolcanicaCSPC: 12135UPC: 8437002995010