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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Clos de Rocs Pouilly Loché En Chantonetext
94POINTS
17½/20

Clos de Rocs Pouilly Loché En Chantone 2018

Pouilly-Loché, Mâconnais, Burgundy, FranceFuissé's Saint-Philibert estate belonged to a family of winegrowers for 7 generations before Olivier Giroux bought it in 2002. He gave it the name Clos de Rocs, and converted the entire estate (10 ha of vineyards) to organics. They own approximately 30% of Pouilly Loché vineyards, which gives you an idea how tiny it is. En Chantone comes from a .65 hectare plot of organically farmed 90 year old vines, on iron-rich clays and limestone. This was native fermented and aged in neutral 500L puncheons, where it remained for 11 months on lees before bottling, unfined. This is intense with minerality, shimmering with limestone vibrancy, and amply seasoned and structured via the neutral barrels. Deep lemon and chalk rule, riveted with alluring reduction, with crisp apple and Anjou pear playing a supporting role. The whole flows along a river of lees to a lingering, saline, flinty finish. Quite complex, and complete, and a lovely expression of place.Tasted: 26 February 2021Tasted by: Treve RingPrices:
BC$75.00750mlprivate wine stores
Producer: Clos des RocsDistributors: Sur Lie
Grape: Chardonnay