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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
CheckMate Artisanal Winery Attack Chardonnaytext
94POINTS
17½/20

CheckMate Artisanal Winery Attack Chardonnay 2017

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaAttack has consistently been among the best Checkmate labels every year. It is a coferment of Dijon clones and the Dekleva clone from two single vineyards: Jagged Rock (Black Sage Bench); and Border Vista Vineyard (Osoyoos East Bench). In 2017 it was fermented and aged 16 months in a single, new French oak foudre. It's hard to underestimate the foudre effect that seems to sets this wine free, exposing its most alluring beginning with a saline flavour that permeates the wine. The benefits of moving to organic farming are also beginning to come home to roost in 2017. Phenolic ripening is happening sooner, allowing earlier picking, and you guessed, lower alcohol. This edition comes in at 13.9, giving the wine a delicacy that further heightens its outer edges. Sadly, regional wildfires created long periods of smoke that contributed to higher than usual mildew rates, stalling the organic program, although it's been back on track since 2018. It would appear a little less is more in 2017 as Attack begins to settle into itself, becoming more elegant with each passing vintage.Tasted: 06 December 2020Tasted by: Anthony GismondiPrices: BC 115.00 winery direct, restaurants, select private wine shops Producer: CheckMate Artisanal WineryDistributors: Mark Anthony Wines and Spirits
Grape: ChardonnayCSPC: 798280UPC: 776545802033