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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Silvio Carta Vernaccia di Oristano Riservatext
92POINTS
17/20

Silvio Carta Vernaccia di Oristano Riserva 2001

Sardinia, ItalyPouring a walnut hue, this exceptionally concentrated wine is from the rarely seen Vernaccia di Oristano D.O.C. Riserva, situated only in Sardinias small Tirso Valley in the Sinis Peninsula, in the central west of the island near the sea. In order to be called Riserva, this must be at least 16.5%, and aged a minimum of 4 years. Silvio Carta ages theirs much longer; this went into barrel in 2001, and has remained there for 18 years. The barrels, between 90-120 years old, are all Sardinian chestnut, and 300L. They are intentionally left untopped, allowing the beneficial veil called su Murray, akin to Sherry's flor, to develop. Each year the Angel's Share (evaporation) in the chestnut takes 5 to 8% of wine, leaving a highly concentrated, and thus higher alcohol, wine. Walnuts, hazelnuts, burnished orange, tea leaves, cured meats, chestnuts, aged wood and ample umami teem through this intellectual, savoury wine, concentrated and direct, but with an ethereal quality on the palate and lingering honeyed finish. There's a spire of freshness that buoys this on the palate, keeping even the 18 degrees at bay. Tasted blind you could go for a high quality Palo Cortado; this has incredible depth and length, and is drinking beautifully now (and remains so, kept in your fridge for days after opening). A rare beauty to sip solo, or alongside salty bites, mature cheese, or dark chocolate.Tasted: 08 June 2020Tasted by: Treve RingPrices:
ON$91.95750mlconsignment
Producer: Silvio CartaDistributors: Le Sommelier Inc.
Grape: Vernaccia di San Gimignano