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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Okendo Astobiza Txakoli
90POINTS
16½/20

Okendo Astobiza Txakoli 2018

Navarra and Basque Country, SpainThis young bodega is nestled in Spain's Txakolí de Alava DO, named after nearby mountains. Xabier Abando grew up with his father in the vineyards and making wine, up until his untimely death when Xabier was only fifteen. It was his dream then to one day create his own bodega. In 1996, he purchased an estate near the town of Okendo, planted 2 hectares of vines, and grew his holdings every year. He built his bodega in 2008, in time for his first vintage of his own wine, at age 68. He now oversees the organically-farmed estate with his son-in-law Jon Zubeldia, and the help of enologist Ana MartÍn. Txaokoli is one of those wines that rarely transports out of the region it is heartily consumed in, so to taste one here, and in such pristine a condition, is a joy. Hondurrabi Zuri is joined by 10% Petit Courbu, 20 year old vines at 300m, at the upper heights of the Alava zone. A ferment and time in stainless preserves the crisp, Atlantic-influenced white, and all its tight lemon and white grapefruit drive. Green apple tartness, yeasty lees, a hint of tight white florals, and ample hum of stony salts skips this effortlessly across the palate, finishing with a satisfying citric and stone snap. Bringing me back to the Basque; pass the anchovies.Tasted: 20 October 2019Tasted by: Treve RingPrices: BC 24.00 private wine shops Producer: Okendo TxakoliñaGrape: Hondarrabi ZuriUPC: 815701010001