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89POINTS
16¼/20
Ochota Barrels Control Voltage +5vov Chardonnay 2018
Adelaide, South Australia, AustraliaTaras Ochota makes a lot of small batch, cool climate, Adelaide Hills wines, but this chardy stands out. From a wee plot of organically farmed Basket Range fruit, this is clone G9V7, basket pressed with full solids into one puncheon and seasoned French barriques where it was native fermented, underwent full MLF as well as weekly battonage for four months. This was bottled without fining or filtration, and only tipped with minimal SO2. Fully reductive by intent, with flint, saline and marine notes ruling over smoked lemon, thistle, medicinal citrus, salted brioche, grapefruit pith. Not about fruit, this is an intellectual puzzle as you try and unravel the flavours within (an Australian critic infamously referred to this wine as being like chicken stock + anus). Powerful and confident, this youthful wine can overrun the glass now; best with airtime, or better yet, cellar time.Tasted: 23 March 2019Tasted by: Treve RingPrices:| BC | $65.00 | 750ml | private wine shops |
The Living Vine
Grape: ChardonnayCSPC: 81685
