Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Rachis & Derma Skin Fermented White Chardonnaytext

Rachis & Derma Skin Fermented White Chardonnay 2017

Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, CanadaOntario VQA announced a category for skin-fermented whites to thrive in July of 2017, trickling into the market a number of local orange wines. Rachis & Derma is the natural wine of Hidden Bench, and this skin-contact chardonnay is from estate organically farmed grapes, whole cluster, fermented natural, and with 46 days on skins before resting in older barrels nine months pre bottling unfined and unfiltered with no sulphur added. Grapefruit pith, bergamot essence stream through the cleansing, brisk, fresh palate, one that alluringly grips at the sides and encourages food and / or another glass. This is tight and nervy, lean and energetic, clean as a whistle, and an impressive start in the orange realm from Harald Thiel. Why they named this Rachis & Derma (skins and bones) and not under the Hidden Bench label astounds me, as does the name White Chardonnay.Tasted: 15 December 2018Tasted by: Treve RingPrices: ON 35.00 winery direct Producer: Hidden Bench Vineyards & WineryGrape: Chardonnay