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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Varichon & Clerc Privilege Blanc de Blancs
87POINTS
15¾/20

Varichon & Clerc Privilege Blanc de Blancs NV

Savoie, FranceThe official proclamation of the small AOC Seyssel in 1973 (only 220 acres under vine) was the first sparkling wine AOC in France after Champagne. This was très bon for Varichon & Clerc. Winemaking in Seyssel was recorded for the first time in the 12th Century (1145), and further developed under the monks from the 14th century onward. Seyssel is where Varichon & Clerc was established in 1901, making them one of the region’s oldest and most important wine houses making Traditional Method fizz. They were purchased by the Boisset family in the 1990s. This wine is a blend of ugni blanc, colombard, chenin, chardonnay and jacquère, aged for 15 months on the lees, and given a dosage of 12 g/l. Though brut, the sugar sticks out here, first on the nose (fruit loops) and then on the palate, slapping candied peach, light toast, dried mango on a sharp, crunchy palate. Acidity is high, intention is valid, and the framework is good, but this falls a bit on the bittersweet orange finish. I'd love to see some of their drier fizz, where the fruit isn't jockeying for position with the RS. Best enjoyed with a good chill.Tasted: 11 April 2018Tasted by: Treve RingPrices: BC 24.00 private wine shops Producer: Varichon & ClercDistributors: Bonvida Wines
Blend: Ugni Blanc - Colombard - Chenin - Chardonnay - JacquèreCSPC: 891051UPC: 3174470000529