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93POINTS
17¼/20
Jose Maria Da Fonseca Moscatel Setúbal Alambre 20 Years NV
Setúbal Peninsula, Central and Southern Portugal, PortugalMoscatel de Setúbal may be familiar to MW students, but it's certainly one of the lesser known styles of fortified wine. The name gives us some clues: it's made from moscatel, or muscat of Alexandria, from the Setúbal peninsula of Portugal, located across the Tagus River from Lisbon. The wines are fortified, clocking in at 19%, and aged for years to develop an oxidative character, similar in style to some vin doux naturel (like Ambré) or, if pushed, cream sherry. This 20 year old example, from the pioneer of the category, has developed a rich rancio character, evoking notes of nuts, dried orange peel, and toffee, alongside muscat’s characteristic floral perfume. There's tremendous depth and complexity here, and the sweetness is beautifully balanced by a precise line of acidity, packed with flavour intensity that carries through to a long finish. It's a worthwhile discovery, an ounce at a time, that will keep over several weeks after opening. The reviewed wine was bottled in 2021, per the back label.Tasted: 03 November 2023Tasted by: Prices:| BC | $79.99 | 500ml | select private retailers |
Grape: Moscatel de SetúbalCSPC: 33449UPC: 5601174330013
