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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

German Wines

By: Anthony Gismondi
Saturday, March 30 2013

The international wine and spirits community were in Germany this week attending ProWein, one of the biggest trade shows on the planet.

German Wines

More than 40,000 visitors passed through the doors, and on the eve of the big show the German Wine Institute (DWI) updated the world on the state of German wine.

 

The news is both good and bad. Total German wine exports amounted to 1.3 million hectolitres adding up to a value of 321 million euros for 2012. The good news for the Germans is the average price of wines from German wine-growing regions increased by 8.4 per cent to 2.46 euros per litre. Some 78 per cent of the quantity exported was considered "quality wine" whose prices averaged 2.70 euros per litre with slight price differences linked to specific markets.

 

As an aside for all who ask why isn't B.C. exporting more wine? It appears the average litre price leaving Germany amounts to $3.54 Cdn. The average reported price for B.C. wine sold per litre in 2011/12 (down one per cent) was a whopping $24.06.

 

The good news for German wineries is exports to Norway, Canada, Japan and Sweden are growing: an increase in value of between four and 10 per cent and a simultaneous increase in quantity. It would appear the monopolies in those countries are attractive retailers for German wines. It is an easier channel to market your wine to a large group of stores than trying to go door to door to numerous private retailers.

 

In Norway, Drinks magazine reports that besides Riesling there has been increased interest in Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) and Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris) or Silvaner, and it is all linked to its compatibility with Nordic cuisine. Exports to the Netherlands also jumped six per cent with DWI pointing to a Dutch market that appreciates the diversity of grape varieties from the German growing regions.

 

Here in Canada, German wine sales remain tiny but in this writer's estimation highly important. Riesling, and to some extent its extended family of grape crossings, exhibit an electricity and vibrancy that we seldom see in other varieties. Almost always lower in alcohol, these juicy vibrant, oak-free wines have pure flavours that work with myriad of foods, which leads us to this month's promotion in government wine stores.

 

Perfect Pairings with Wines of Germany launches in April at participating BC Liquor Stores. It seems fitting that when West Coasters shed their rain gear for shorts, German wine and lighter food matches signal the start of spring. As mentioned German wines are by definition crafted for freshness and given their food- friendly structure, each featured selection comes with a pairing of Asian flavours during the Wines of Germany's Perfect Pairings in-store thematic.

 

The promotion will roll out in 60 BC Liquor Stores throughout the province and will feature 12 wines. You'll want to drop by any of the participating stores to pick up a very useful and free booklet developed for consumers to take home that matches wines with such foods as Indian curry, Korean stir-fry, Chinese barbecue and more.

 

There will also be a free consumer event on Sunday, April 7, where you can try samples of all eight featured German wines paired with Indian pakoras. The event is open to the public at Cambie and 39th Signature BC Liquor Store, 2 to 5 p.m.; all visitors will leave with a free gift, no purchase required.

 

This week I've worked my way through most of the wines in the promotion and while they are all interesting. I have chosen six of the best for you to enjoy at home.

 

As I have suggested many times, call it a revolution or an evolution, but as more and more varietal wines begin to look alike, Riesling is returning to the limelight with its electric personality and an uncanny ability to pair well with a variety of multicultural cuisines Canadians enjoy on a daily basis.

 

This month you can get out and explore both in B.C. and kickstart your summer. All you need do is taste with an open mind and a pulled-pork sandwich.

 


Dr. Loosen Sparkling Riesling N/V, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany

Price: $19 | Score 88/100

UPC: 183103000761

Sekt, as the Germans refer to sparkling wine, is something they drink more than anyone else in the world and when it's made from Riesling, it can be sublime. The Dr. L bubble is 100 per cent Riesling. Expect a fresh, crisp, steely, bright fruity style with just a hint of sweetness. You will love the juicy palate and clean crisp finish. The suggested match is a wealth o f Thai dishes featuring coconut milk or cream.

 

Selbach Riesling (Fish Label) 2011, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany

Price: $16 | Score 88/100

UPC: 00717215001707

Look for a floral, green apple, slate, honey, grassy, citrus nose that previews a fresh, crisp, juicy palate with balanced sweetness. The palate is mix of green apple, lime, grassy, slate and nectarine. Excellent value here.

 

Palataia Pinot Grigio 2010, Pfalz, Germany

Price: $19 | Score 88/100

UPC: 007340048600811

Wow, what a pleasant surprise. This is not your average Grigio, given it comes from Germany but you will be impressed with its attractive fresh, citrus, aroma nose. The palate is equally lively with hint of ripe, red apple flavours.

 

Heitlinger Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder) Trocken Smooth Leaf 2011, Baden, Germany

Price: $18 | Score 86/100

UPC: 004040409211115

Pinot Blanc can be both earthy and buttery, and, in this case, flecked with apple skin, floral aromas and a touch of honey. The attack is fresh and slightly sweet.

 

Schloss Reinhartshausen Rheingau Riesling Dry 2011, Rheingau, Germany

Price: $20 | Score 87/100

UPC: 4005055016170

Look for a floral, ripe apple, peach skin, minty, guava-scented nose. A round, fresh, off-dry palate with slate, lime, granny smith apple, spicy, lees and peach pit flavours. It finishes dry and zippy.

 

Balthasar Ress Hattenheimer Schützenhaus Riesling Kabinett 2011, Rheingau, Germany

Price: $24 | Score 90/100

UPC: 4018847111342

Love the snappy acidity and tension in this delicious just off-dry white. Honey, floral, guava Golden delicious apple fruit is at its core that finishes with a tang. Fresh and juicy.


Read more: http://www.vancouversun.com/life/case+German+wine/8166706/story.html#ixzz2PQVWjLzO

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.