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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Therianthropy Bonnie Vivant Chardonnaytext
88POINTS
16/20

Therianthropy Bonnie Vivant Chardonnay 2021

Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, CanadaTherianthropy is the mythical process of shapeshifting, which is another way to view turning nature into wine. This small collaborative project launched in late 2019. From St. David's Bench's Bock Vineyard, this dry farmed chardonnay is rooted in loamy clays (Tavistock red phase, Toledo loamy phase, Toledo phase), planted 10 years ago. After a whole cluster, native ferment (with 11% seeing 3 weeks on skins) in concrete egg, this remained there for full MLF and 7 months on lees without bâtonnage. It was bottled unfined and unfiltered. Pouring a deep yellow hue, this year's is ripe and round, with a sheen of butter and a kiss of caramel on the creamy palate, filled out with ripe pear, green apple, and a whisper of concrete grip. The richness reflects the dry and hot growing season, and makes this suited to creamy white risotto dishes now.Tasted: 05 January 2023Tasted by: Treve RingPrices:
ON$29.95750mlwinery online/direct
Producer: TherianthropyDistributors: Winery Direct
Grape: Chardonnay