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Anthony Gismondi on Wine
Rigour and Whimsy Orienteering in the Underworldtext
88POINTS
16/20

Rigour and Whimsy Orienteering in the Underworld 2019

Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, CanadaFrom the teeny garagiste family-owned Rigour & Whimsy, in the OK Falls, this is a new syrah release, with fruit from an Oliver vineyard, around 300m. The ferment was kickstarted with heavy lees off their Cowabunga! pinot blanc fizz. Whole clusters of syrah were layered into the fermenter, layered with dry ice, and sealed up to encourage carbonic maceration. After 1 week, they began slowly foot-trodding the fruit, adding 100lbs of viognier skins from Hyperdrive in a Côte-Rôtie homage. After 4 weeks of fermentation, this was pressed into one used puncheon, 1 barrique, and a stainless tank, where it remained for 16 months. This swings bright and lifted, with darts of VA and reduction, and crunchy dark plums, black cherry, and wild blackberry, scented with violets and iris, and seasoned with a fine salinity. Tannins are soft and dusky, shadowing the sides to a lightly sticky finish. Quite an intriguing wine, from name and striking label (art by Powell River's Annnie Robinson), through the single note flavours and aromas which meld into harmony in the glass. Drinking well now, with a slight chill. 95 cases made.Tasted: 15 June 2021Tasted by: Treve RingPrices:
Producer: Rigour & WhimsyDistributors: Juice Imports
The Living Vine
Grape: Shiraz/Syrah